Friday 29 May 2026

We have just returned from two days in Ill d’Oleron, a nice, quiet and very sunny island off the Bay of Biscay coast, south of La Rochelle. One hour from LPR. A very good idea from Lady P to take a couple of days off and book a 2* hotel and just wander around and surf the beaches.

Now, Thursday’s departure was marked by forgetting the car keys and the day for her just got worse. Flashy, well he had a ball. No coffee you see, because we left a bit late and had to make the rendezvous at the oyster shack before the 12.30 “we’re closed for lunch” bullshit. Oh, dear roadworks. Not a good vibe. However, the oysters, freshly shucked from the seabed, with a nice little Colombard vin blanc, just before closing, were delightful.

Detailed research dictated that we head for J&J snack bar for fish and chips for a late lunch overlooking the estuary. Oops, closed kitchen. Just a bit late arriving. Their restaurant kitchen is however open for only fish and chips at a slightly more expensive cost. We agree. Oh dear, the table we chose is wobbly! Have to move inside. Her fish is cold in the middle. They cook another piece. It is however underwhelming all round.

Oh well, a dip in the surf is what the doctor ordered. Road works delay our arrival at a beautiful surf beach, with fine sand and not too many people. Oh dear. She has packed Flashy’s togs but left her nice colourful one piece in the car and we are half a mile down the track to the beach. In the end, she implores Flashy, who hates cold water, to go in for a dip. This is a revenge thing I’m sure. However, he finds it very pleasant. Not too cold at all. So, he splashes about and catches a wave.

Then off to check in, only to find a note on the hotel door saying, we think in French, “we’ve pissed off for a shag, call my mobile and  I’ll sort getting you in.” Or something like that. Standing on the porch, with two phones texting and calling gets us nowhere. It’s 30c. Then Lady P checks her emails and finds a message with the door code. Ah, we enter, climb the obligatory 17 steps to room 17 and collapse on the bed.

After a little while, we go for a walk to the beach. This is on the lee side and no surf, but it has a very cute, absolute beach front bar/café. For once her luck changes and we snaffle the front table overlooking the sand dune and beach. And to top it off, we get some nice snacks and a couple of Spritz’. Back to our hotel for an early night.

Friday is a much better day, luck wise for Lady P. We enjoy a nice coffee and croissant at a local market and wander around the not so busy but expensive town centre and end up for lunch overlooking the little marina at a seafood restaurant. Flashy has a burger and chips. Lady P, not mucking around now, orders grilled Sole – she gets two! with a few sides and pinches a handful of Flashy’s chips as well. Very pleasant.

Fully togged up now, we head back to yesterday’s surf beach for an hour or so on the sand, in the sun and have a nice surf in the pleasant ocean before driving the hour back to LPR.

Rick Stein photo.
Artistic photo. only 100ml of vin, though
See, he's all wet and coming out of the ocean.
Front table.
A couple of Aperol down by now.
#3 Huitres. Freshly shucked by the mother of the son who grows them.
Look what Flashy found on the beach.


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