10-14 June 2026

The Grand Chapitre – Aix-en-Provence

We are heading to Aix-en-Provence today for the three-day, International Grand Chapitre for laChaine des Rotisseurs.

Now, this is usually a 300+ person, 22+ country attendee event, with much high-end feasting, entertainment and excellent wines. Our last one in 2024 in Bordeaux, was amazing.

So, we booked in February and awaited the program of events with much anticipation. Cunningly, we had put Flashy’s dinner suit and lounge suit, along with Lady P’s formal frock, in a zip bag under Alyssa’s bed in London last year – just in case.

Well, the Grand Chapitre was in Aix (not Bordeaux or Paris). That’s almost on the Med. And some 30 something in the Chaine HQ decided that the dress code would be business and casual chic. What the hell is chic you ask!

Flashy asked his ChatGPT alter ego ‘Charles’. He said, “Yves Saint Laurent redefines it by creating the Le Smoking tuxedo suit, pioneering strong minimalist styles for women and solidifying the chicness of androgyny.” Yeah right. Further questioning of said Charles, described business chic as – for men – loafers (socks optional) chinos, long sleeved collared shirt, no tie and for the Mediterranean, a blazer, preferably navy double breasted. Pocket handkerchief a nice touch. The ladies can wear anything. Old sneakers with a thousand euro dress is so Parisian chic, they say.

For the second night’s mystery dinner the dress code was ‘blue jeans and a white top chic’. It looked pretty good with 140 people all walking into the olive grove, but is it really Chaine standard?

Then again, for the Gala Dinner – think here 200+ people from all over the world with the blokes in tuxedos and the sheilas in silky gowns – well no. The dress code was “casual chic and no jackets.” Oh, you can feel the rumblings going on amongst the traditional over 30’s. Well, in the case of the Chaine, the over 70’s!

The end result was that Lady P got to go shopping for all sorts of stuff. Flashy had to buy a jacket and new loafers. He does have socks by the way. And, you know, the events sort of lost a touch of class. Clearly, the Asians and some middle eastern chaps had no idea or even cared what chic was. Or knew and just ignored the code. So, I’ve set the scene for the Grand Chaiptre.

We went by train. Bloody marvellous. The train trip started in Surgères, where we parked the car, then onwards to Paris. It was on time and comfortable and the transfer at Gare Montparnasse to Gare de Lyon also smooth. The TGV down to Aix en Provence was a different crowd. More Parisiens on holidays and or working stiffs and lots of students. Both trains were well patronised.

All good so far except, after a nice Rose in the buffet car, we raced off at what we assumed was our stop, only to find it was Avignon. Well, it starts with an A and according to the SNCF App it was not due to stop there. Oh well we can wait 45 mins and get the next train, one stop down to Aix en Provence.

While enjoying a nice cone of glace at the station, we discovered that Lady P had left her tablet on the train. No more Rose for her. Just have to laugh and move on.

We did get the next train and 15 mins later got off in Aix, sans tablet!. Double checking pockets and counting bags, we got the bus into our hotel for the next four nights.

The Hotel Paul is a small two star sort of boutique place, just on the outskirts of the old town and is clean, convenient and offers a good petite dejeuner and a nice garden.

Thursday was day 1 of the Chaine des Rotisseurs International Grand Chaiptre and the Welcome Dinner for 140 people was at the Hotel Centre d'Art Caumont, a beautiful "entre cour et jardin" architectural style, built in the early 1700's.

The canapes and Champagne in the garden courtyard were impressive. Tiny pastry boxes of pate and mini vegetable slices, tartare of dorrade (bream) with passionfruit juice cure, rozella flowers stuffed with goats’ cheese, oysters and such like were served generously for an hour.

Dinner was allocated seating inside the charming building and we had a delightful table of Danish, Norwegian, American and French couples. Plenty of Rose and Cote du Rhone, with a Champagne to finish.

Entree was seared langoustine, floral vinaigrette and seasonal salad vegetables. 2025 Miraval Rose. The magnum of 2019 Coudoulet de Beaucastle AOC Cote du Rhone appeared and reappeared as needed and this accompanied the Chateaubriand and roasted lobster, which one guest suggested was Surf n Turf. Flashy enjoyed it. Stuffed zucchini flower and baby veges made the dish. Steak perfectly cooked medium. The Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blanc Champagne came out with a stunning finger of citron cremeux, finger lime, Royal meringue and thyme ice cream for dessert.

We didn't need Maccas on the 10 minute stroll home at 11 pm. A good start to the Grand Chapitre.

Friday is to be a mystery dinner, a bus ride out to a winery. The long table dinner in the olive grove was a bit mixed with the food, sounding good on the menu, falling a bit short on delivery. Generous on the wine though.

Entrée was braised artichokes with Provence white wine and herbs, served with a 2024 Chateau Virant “Inspiration” Rose (AOC Coteaux Aix-en-Provence). Not so great a dish.

Next was what Flashy called floating dead fish. Now, a bit harsh I suppose, as it was artfully plated. A small escabeche (cold) of red mullet (That’s bait surely?) a little piece of rock octopus in ratatouille and olives. Tasted OK. The wine was good.

Where’s the red said many on our table. In French style out came the Brousse du Rove cheese with honey. Crumbly, white flavourless fromage. Finally, someone found a red. As you know, the frogs don’t serve red with cheese. People power won over and we got a decent Provincial red wine. Dessert was a nice strawberry cake and of course they brought out another Rose to have with it. By then we really didn’t care much. A bus home to town.

Saturday was the Gala Dinner and the AGM in the morning. This left lunch open, so we and our Cairns based Chaine friends, Kevin and Robin, found a fromage speciality bistro and enjoyed a light lunch and a bottle of Rose before an afternoon nap, quick shower and a bus ride to Chateau La Coste for the intronization ceremony and dinner at tables set in the gardens.

Again, the menu read well. The food was good to average but the wines and Camus Cognac were very good.

Starter was cold smoked salmon with you guessed it, a Grand Vin Rose. Mixed opinions. Flashy thought it satisfactory. Perhaps he has a more refined palate?

A Sea Bass fillet with confit peppers and olive oil was actually very good. A Domaine Jeane-Laurent Crozes-Hermitage Blanc was also exceptional.

The main was a fillet mignon of veal with truffle and mini vegetables. Over cooked veal. A bit sad. It’s Chaine after all. However, the Nuits-St Georges Bourgourne Pinot Noir was spot on.

Another white wine with the cheeses was by this time a matter of passing. But the cheeses were French. Say no more.

Oh yes, the cherry tart with elderflower cream was nice but so too was the Camus Cognac. Home time. We were on the first bus and asleep as soon as the head hit the pillow.

Sunday saw a seamless five hour uber, bus and two TGV trains from Aix to Paris to Surgères and our car, still safe in the carpark, then home to LPR.

Hey, what? This looks like Avignon!

Good canapes at the welcome Dinner.

Nice huh?

Always smiling when Champagne is involved.

hurry up mate.

Gala Dinner table setting.

Excellent strawberries.

Jeans and white top night.