Monday afternoon, 20 July 2026

We managed to book a Paris Greeter (a worldwide association of free walks by locals). We asked for the 13^th arrondissement as we’d not spent much time there. So, after lunch we met Philippe, a retired GP at Metro Corvisart and commenced a pleasant two hour walk around the streets, looking at street art and quiet streets lined with bars and restaurants. It is a dynamic, multicultural district on Paris's Left Bank, seamlessly blending ultra-modern architecture with old-world village charm. The 13^th is famous for housing Paris's main Asian Quarter and bohemian neighbourhoods and the site of  "the barricades!"

Philippe chose the La Butte-aux-Cailles neighbourhood, a slightly hilly, cobblestoned enclave with lots of students. Resembling a quiet, artsy country village, it is packed with vibrant street murals, independent shops, and cozy bistros - and practically no tourists.

During France's defeat in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871) and the ensuing four-month violent Siege of Paris, widespread famine and resentment toward the national government radicalized the working-class Parisians. This anger birthed the Paris Commune, a radical socialist government that controlled Paris in the spring of 1871.

La Butte-aux-Cailles played a crucial role during the final, bloody stand of the Commune. The desperate call "To the barricades!" (Aux barricades !) defines this exact period. Interesting, eh?

For reference, we walked Rues; de la Butte-aux-Cailles; David; Bobillot; and Square Peuplies among others. We passed the Art Deco swimming pool, fed by 600 m deep springs, Alsace style timber homes set among traditional brick/rock homes in Petite Alsace in Rue David and a variety of architectural styled homes. There was even a Wallace fountain.

Then there’s the iconic female silhouettes found on the walls of Butte-aux-Cailles, created by feminist artist Miss.Tic, the pseudonym of Radhia Novat, a pioneering French stencil artist and poet. Her name plays on the French word mystique (mystery and glamour) and is a nod to Miss Tick, a powerful witch from a French comic book.

Her sprayed stencil figures typically feature seductive, busty, stylized brunettes with flowing hair, often wearing skimpy dresses or high heels. And what’s wrong with that, you say?

They are often accompanied by a pithy social caption. For example "L'abus de plaisir est excellent pour la santé." (English Translation: "The abuse of pleasure is excellent for your health"). A middle finger to the multitude of health warnings on alcoholic beverages.

And, after another 8,000 steps or so, we trained and trammed our way home to a cooling GnT and a couple of Ibuprofen. Photos are care of Lady P, that's why they are so good.

A big mural.

Miss.Tic "Life's a Bomb!"

Petite Alsace houses among the more traditional.

A determined group of commies still promoting change.

A place to come back to.

Philippe our guide.

That's a house.

So sad. They are pulling this building down.

Miss Tic herself.