After 14 days of lousy connectivity, finally in Bonifacio, we have Royal Hotel wifi. Somephotosnext post.
Fri 14 – Tue
18 August 2026
Alyssa and Jenny
arrive for a few days and it’s a series of breakfast on the terrace, lunch
under the trees, swims in the pool as the days remain hot, and long evening
dinners with bottles of Sancerre wine, specially kept for the occasion. A very
relaxing few days needed by all.
Heading to Corsica
Wed 19 – Fri 21
August 2026
Lady P has
planned ten days in Corsica at a beach side apartment as a treat for her
birthday. And of course, the builders are all on summer break. It is an 800+km
road trip followed by an overnight 12 hr car ferry ride. Since we’re not 30
somethings with three grizzling kids anymore, we decide to break up the drive
and stay overnight in Narbonne, a beautiful, old Roman town beside the Canal du
Midi. The only downside was the small but nicely done bed sit. A great location
with an easy walk to the canal and bars and a ‘truly locals’ Turkish
restaurant, but the little room was stifling hot. The poor old pedestal fan
just not doing the job. A trying night.
The next day’s
drive to Toulon was on the A9 and going the other way was bumper to bumper with a 10km traffic jam
due to a car carrier catching alight and completely burning out.
The car ferry was
a big ship but less than half full. Our cabin was unfortunately directly above
the nine thumping and rattling engines and next to the nine groaning and loud
exhausts. Not a comfortable night despite a nice, comfortable bed and ensuite -
and a very stiff nightcap.
There were lots
of Italians on board, as staff and tourists, so Flashy slipped seamlessly into
his restaurant and railway Italian to order a nice meal in La Dolce Vitae
restaurant.
Then at 6.00 am
we arrived in Bastia, Corsica, on the north east tip of the island. One hour
south is Linguizzetta, our beach apartment. Problem is, check in time is 3 pm.
At this early arrival time the few port side cafes that are open are full of
very sleepy tourists with large bags. They’d be the cheap seats who slept on
the floor of the bars and alleyways aboard the ferry. We see them in the
various places we visit, such as the museum, as we all try and amuse ourselves
for 8 hours.
By the time we
discover Restaurant La Plage on the way home - absolute beach front on the
nuddie beach and have a good meal and a beverage, we are only 10 minutes from
home. Why is it that all the nude people passing our restaurant are, how shall
I say – not the trim, taught and terrific younger ones? Still, some of the
young ladies mustn’t have paid much for their bikinis. What’s six square inches
of fabric worth?
Eventually we are
at the apartment. Drop the bags, crash asleep for two hours, then up and at em!
The beach is crowded with bright umbrellas, bodies of all shapes and sizes,
lots of young families and the dulcet sound of Italian wafting in the air.
Having a beer and
Spritz in the beach side pop up, Chez Babbo, we notice three large butts of
pork on a spit. It appears that tonight about 100 folks will come to a sold out
dinner, complete with Corsican singers. All under the hessian and lights on the
sand above the beach. We, however, have an early night in our air conditioned
apartment.
Saturday 22
August 2026
The forecast rain
has missed us and it’s hot. So down to the beach she goes. Flashy follows after
some admin. After an hour he is cooked. She turns over for some more rays.
Eventually, seeking some WIFI connectivity, as there is none in the apartment,
we head down the beach to the Chez Babbo beach bar. They do food and beverages
seven days a week and the Aperol Spritz and bier pression (grande please) is
delicious. The young guns at the bar speak Italian by the sound (volume) of it,
as their first language and French and very good English. So, ordering starts
out in French, then a little Italian and eventually “Please sit down and I will
bring it to you.” In English. Nice lads.
Home in the
afternoon as the beach sand becomes red hot, Flashy is double cooked and a
little nap is in order.
We decided that
the beach shelter we borrowed from Johnny should be taken tomorrow, along with
the camping chairs. That way, Flashy can escape the hot sun and we can sit in
comfort while we enjoy a little Mediterranean picnic.
So, it says
“erect in 2 minutes.” That’s the shelter. You know the type. Spring loaded,
fold and cross your arms twist and bingo! Who should do it? An ex Girl Guide, Virgo,
designer or an Aquarian with more careers than Allan Bond? So, she practices in
the apartment so not to be embarrassed on the beach. Flashy gives encouraging
advice and it’s up. Folded eventually and back in the jaunty shoulder bag for
the beach tomorrow.
Sunday 23
August 2026
Our beach is a
very short walk away and is ‘not fine and not course’ sand. The water is clear,
full of little fish and a delightful 29C. The air temp is 30C. The female of
the beach bathing species all have tiny thong bikinis, even the old tarts.
Isn’t that refreshing?
And there’s lots
of Italian, German and some French accents, but no English from any part of the
Empire. Makes for good listening.
Off early to the
beach, loaded with said shelter and chairs, home made dips, fried bread,
chorizo fume salami, Brebis and Brie cheeses and slices of rockmelon, all on
ice. Got our favourite spot, as there were not too many on the beach at 10.00
am. And there we stayed, swam, crawled in and out of the shelter and sunbaked
until one member of the party needed coffee. Chez Baboo to the rescue. One
cappuccino and a cold Corona - and they have a phone signal. An hour surveying
the beach and getting intermittent communication out to the family.
Back to our spot
and the beach is now more crowded. Wonderful people watching. Our picnic was
delicious, consumed with water this time. You can’t be too decadent! Then, more
swims before abandoning the very hot sand for home and an ice cream and a
little power nap.
A 5 pm gin and
tonic on our veranda is taken before we wander back to Chez Baboo for dinner.
Do not panic. We will explore the delights of other culinary establishments as
the 10 day, summer stress break continues.
Monday 24
August 2026
Today is an admin
day. Seeking wifi, we drove to Aleria, a larger town about half an hour away. A
stop at a tiny 7/11 equivalent at the end of our village for some water and a
baguette while we fed the new 3-station laundromat pop-up our washing. There is
only one road down the east coast and it was fairly busy. Then we saw blue flashing lights and a
traffic jam. It turned out that a possibly dead (didn’t look to good to Flashy)
motorcyclist was being loaded into an ambulance. Not surprised. The riders here
wear beach clothes and weave in and out of traffic. Sad to see though.
Aleria was hot
and not much shade, so a cooling beer and spritz ordered at a nice bar. “Wifi
mate?” “No.” However, we did manage to get a 4G signal and make some contact
with family and do some business at international roaming rates.
Leclerc provided
essentials like tonic and gin, a Corsican red wine and a local salami. The
fishing shop next door got Lady P a floaty for the sea. Looking for better
wifi, we headed to the beach and to a beach side restaurant, famous for its
fish burger - if being on Facebook is
famous?
Well, the burgers
were up to spec; the frites crispy and hot and the Corsican white wine very
good.
Tuesday 25
August 2026
Frustration
continues with the lack of any phone signal in the apartment. Hence no wifi
either. So much so that Lady P has decided to leave here two days early and go
to the bottom of the island to a hotel in Bonifacio. I wonder if that will be
any better?
There were
violent storms and even a tornado along the south coast of France last night
and the sea here was quite rough this morning. Flashy went in, and straight out
again, as the water was murky. That’s good shark conditions, so while it was a
pleasant temperature, best not to tempt fate. Home to the cement pond for a
swim. It’s not a bad little pool, surprisingly.
There is rumour
of a bar on the hill above us. And it turned out to be true. Perched on the top
of the hill above our apartment is a large wood fired pizza and specialist
artisanal glace restaurant. Having discovered it was open and admiring the
view, it would have been rude not to have a drink or two, Corse wine is
actually quite good, with a range of grape varieties only known to aliens but
good full bodied reds and spicy whites.
Wednesday 26
August 2026
Lady P’s birthday
and an early start for the 45 minute drive south to Solenzarra for our day
sailing. Corse is still, not surprisingly given its history, strongly Italian
and has a Basque like streak for independence. The bloody drivers, like
Italians, believe that a speed limit is a suggestion only and that overtaking
on double lines on a blind corner is perfectly acceptable.
We meet Obe our
skipper at his ‘all things Corse’ shop, pay his wife in cash only, get conned into
buying some Corsican wine, mustard and sardines and discover that he speaks not
a word of English. Apart from booommmerang and kingarou. We get his French when
he says he loves Australia and hopes to come and stay with Flashy and Lady P at
some stage. Our other French passengers arrive. Two couples with kids. The 40
year olds – she also having a birthday today – have two charming girls 7 and
11. They have no English but smile a lot. The other maybe 50’ish couple have a
teenage daughter. They have no English. The 10 of us will all be on the 49 foot
yacht for nearly nine hours. Welcome to our first ‘French Immersion’ day!
The yacht was
very clean and comfortable and with the Basque and Corse flags flying (no
Tricolor), we motored into the wind, south towards Porto Vecchio stopping for a
snack and a Heineken at 10.30 am. Obe had the first of his seven stubbies for
the day. Flashy and one other of the kind gentlemen made sure he didn’t drink
alone. There was no safety briefing; no wearing lifejackets, if indeed there
were any; and the kids roamed the deck as they pleased.
Here the water
was crystal clear, sandy bottom and lots of fish. We all swam in the warm,
salty Med.
The next stop was
lunch and a feast of deli meats, bread, sundried tomato tapenade and pork rillettes.
Corsican white wine, of which Obe had half a bottle. Another brilliant swim in
amazingly clean and clear water.
The return trip
was under sail, with a southerly moving us at 3 knots. The only sound was Obe’s
continuous commentary - political, historical and geographic, which we sort of
got the gist but would have liked to understand more. After stubby number six, Obe
put some English and French music on Spotify, which we all enjoyed. He started
to sing a bit too.
By stubby number
seven, we were almost back at the marina, where with expert seamanship, Obe
parked the yacht backwards into a very tight berth.
You really
couldn’t have asked for a better day. Not too hot with a little cloud, crystal
clear warm and very salty water, some French practice with friendly and polite
fellow travellers, delightful and cheeky young girls, who had an absolute ball
and were largely unsupervised all day and skipper Obe – one out of the box that
man.
Two very crusty
Aussies home to a shower, gin and tacos in that order.
Thursday 27 –
Sunday 30 August 2026
In comparison to
yesterday, it was overcast and humid on Thursday. Not much of a beach day. Even
the kiddies beach had waves. We discovered that the Corse salami Flashy bought
was nicely smoked and spicy, so another platter lunch. Also surprising was the
white and rose wine we had at the beach bar pre-dinner. Considering it came out
of a box, it was pretty good and a generous pour too.
Friday is our
last day in Linguizzetta, as we have cut the stay here short due to the lack of
comms and will head to Bonifacio for two nights tomorrow. Bigger town - hotel
stay.
Yes, Bonifacio is a beautiful hill top town thronging with tourists.
At least if the kiddies had fallen in the crystal clear water ir would have been easy to find them.
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